From the end of the 1800s onward, the Michaelic pilgrimage became a mass event, with groups of devotees from all over Italy setting out to reach the Gargano, either on foot or aboard characteristic carts.
In particular, pilgrims gathered at the “sacred mountains” on May 8 and September 29, taking part in the “Cumpagnie” of the Sammichelari. Along the way—marked by songs, prayers, and penitential rites—the pilgrims paused for the night in the convents of the Lombard Sacred Way, including San Leonardo di Siponto, San Matteo, and Santa Maria di Stignano.
Giovanni Tancredi, an ethnologist of the Gargano, described in 1938 the pilgrims ascending the steep hairpin bends of the mountain:
“Anyone who wishes to feel true faith should come up here and observe the carriage roads, the rugged paths, the mountain slopes where young and old, men and women bearing large bundles on their heads, carrying shoes and uòse in their hands, praying the rosary, climb in long serpentine lines, or scattered along various shortcuts like flocks of grazing sheep, singing endless litanies.”
Tancredi captured photographs of entire compagnie, in which one can see hundreds of pilgrims bound for the Sanctuary of Saint Michael. They are accompanied by their carts, dressed in the characteristic costumes, and carrying typical pilgrim items—plumed staffs, umbrellas, and buckets. These symbols are tied to the magical world of religious ritual. Among the groups represented are those from Boiano (Ch), Toritto, Potenza, Atina (Fr), Bitonto (Ba), and Terlizzi (Ba), each of which performs its own ritual reflecting its homeland, history, and religious culture.
The ethnologist also provides a vivid account of the “picturesque garments” worn by the women pilgrims to the Gargano: “… from the sky-blue bodice embroidered in gold of the daughters of Baranello to the blue one of the peasant women of Guardiaregia, from the very tight headdress of the women of Atina to the broad rectangular one held in place by an extraordinarily long silver pin worn by the inhabitants of Avigliano...”
Among the many compagnie heading to the Archangel’s city, some intoned the invocation “ora pro nobis” to the sound of the ciaramedde. The most prestigious and steadfast among these was the one from Atina, which arrived on the evening of May 7.
The Compagnia di Atina practiced an ancient ritual known as the “washing of sins.” Before reaching Monte, the pilgrims stopped at a spring and, after washing themselves, the novice participants placed a crown of thorns on their heads and continued barefoot.
The group appeared in traditional local dress, wearing cloaks and winter coats for the pilgrimage—undertaken at the end of winter—led by the head of the compagnia bearing a crucifix.
On the return journey, other devotees carried the traditional plumed staff called the Sprdon (or Bordone), whose top was adorned with many multi-colored feathers. From these hung various objects tied to Atina’s traditions—crowns, pictures and holy cards of Saint Michael, crowns of andrini, and carob pods (or sullèccra).
The Compagnia also included women wearing a traditional costume called the “Pacchiano,” distinguished by vivid colors and precious ornaments—handcrafted jewelry, brooches, clasps, earrings, pendants. They wore a headdress called the “uammacile,” consisting of a small starched linen kerchief pleated and stiffened, decorated with a small cameo, jeweled piece, or worked coral.
According to tradition, anyone participating in the pilgrimage for the first time had to carry the Bordone and undergo its associated rite of initiation.